Flexi-chocolate is also known as pliable ganache or pliable chocolate. (Pliable chocolate is not the same as modeling chocolate, a blend of chocolate and glucose syrup that is also referred to as plastic chocolate.) Texturally, this ganache feels like a creamy chocolate gel but melts readily in the mouth. Like many modern culinary techniques, pliable chocolate has been around for a decade with its earliest popular reference published in the Alinea cookbook. The technique has gained traction among pastry chefs who take a modernist approach to plated desserts as its creamy but firm texture has an elasticity that allows it to bend into any shape. This elasticity is one reason that I prefer this style of ganache in mousse-based entremets because it slices cleanly without having to temper to room temperature.
I adapted this recipe from Antonio Bachour, executive pastry chef at St. Regis Bal Harbor, as it can be shaped straight from the fridge (a bonus when you are plating in a really hot kitchen) and will temper quickly at room temperature. This recipe produces enough ganache for a half sheet. You can pour the ganache a little thinner if you’d like but do not cast it any thicker or it will not be supple enough to bend. Getting the texture right depends on the right balance of agar and gelatin. Agar promotes the heat resistance that allows the ganache to be physically manipulated without melting rapidly. It is not thermo-reversible and will not melt when reheated; using too much agar will make your ganache “chewy”. Gelatin also promotes heat resistance but is thermo-reversible and melts readily in the mouth. This recipe relies on chocolate for its structural integrity so if you want to introduce flavor then infuse the cream with spices or herbs or add an essential oil to the chocolate.
Flexi-Chocolate
260 grams chocolate, 70%, melted
600 grams heavy cream, 40%
90 grams invert sugar (or honey)
50 grams glucose syrup
2 grams salt
1.5 grams agar
6 grams gelatin, bloomed
Combine heavy cream, invert sugar, glucose. Combine salt and agar and add to cream. Warm cream and boil for one minute, stirring occasionally. The mixture should thicken slightly. Add gelatin, mix and strain over chocolate. Let the ganache sit for one minute and blend with immersion blender on low speed. Pour onto acetate-lined sheetpan and chill for two hours uncovered. When the ganache has set, score into desired shapes and peel from the acetate as needed. Wrap tightly. Use within 1 week.
Flexi-Milk Chocolate (Variation)
100 grams Manjari chocolate
300 grams Jivara chocolate
400 grams heavy cream, 40%
40 grams glucose syrup
50 grams water
1.5 grams agar
2 grams salt
4 each gelatin sheets, bloomed
Warm cream and glucose. Blend agar with salt and stir into water. Add the agar mixture to heavy cream and bring to a boil for one minute. Proceed as directed for flexible chocolate.
Flexible Chocolate
(Alternate Recipe by Pastry Chef Russell Karath)
350 grams chocolate,70%
900 grams heavy cream
125 grams glucose syrup
7 ea sheet gelatin, bloomed
to taste, salt
Warm cream and glucose to a simmer. Remove from heat, add gelatin, and proceed as directed for flexible chocolate.
Flexi-Chocolate
(Alternate Recipe from Alinea Cookbook)
375 grams chocolate, 70%, melted
900 grams heavy cream, 40% (see Notes)
100 grams sorbitol
50 grams glucose
2 grams salt
3 grams agar
50 grams water
1 each sheet gelatin, bloomed
Warm cream and glucose. Blend agar with sorbitol and salt and stir into water. Add the agar mixture to heavy cream and bring to a boil for one minute. Add gelatin and proceed as directed for flexible chocolate.
NOTE: this is the amount published in the cookbook but I found the consistency of the ganache better able to hold the shape of a loop if the cream is reduced to 750 grams.
Buttery. Salted. Caramel. 
The desserts look really impressive – definitely something for a restaurant rather than at home!
Agreed, this is not a technique that I would likely use at home. But the next time you go out to eat and have one of these desserts, you will appreciate it more if you know how it’s made. (At least, that’s my hope!)
Can you sub the glucose for light corn syrup?
Hi Adrian: you can sub the glucose for corn syrup if the amount is small (50 grams or less). Corn syrup has a higher water content than glucose and can also contain high fructose syrup which will create a soft chocolate that sags more than it bends.
I want to try the first recipe for my christmas dessert this year and I have question. Do you use gelatin powder of sheet gelatin for this recipe?
Sheet gelatin.